Preparing Your Garden for Early March Planting

Early March is prime time for prepping your garden beds, especially if you’re in North Jersey or NYC. With the right steps, you can kickstart the growing season and get cool-season crops like spinach, carrots, peas, and radishes off to a strong start. Let’s dive deeper into the nitty-gritty of when and how to plant these early crops and give them the care they need.

Which Crops to Seed Now?

Cool-season crops are hardy enough to handle the lingering chill of early spring, but not all of them thrive at the same time or temperature. Here’s a quick rundown of some great options to direct-seed in March and how to handle them:

1. Spinach

   • When to Plant: As soon as the soil is workable—typically in early March.
   • How to Plant: Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep and about 2 inches apart in rows. Thin seedlings to 4–6 inches apart once they’ve sprouted. If you're doing Square Foot Gardening 3 rows of 3 spacing
   • Pro Tip: Spinach loves cool soil (around 40–75°F). Cover it with a light row cover or cold frame to protect it from unexpected frost and speed up germination.

2. Carrots

   • When to Plant: Direct seed as soon as the soil is dry enough to work, ideally mid to late March.
   • How to Plant: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep and spaced 2–3 inches apart in rows. Cover lightly with fine soil or compost and water gently. For SFG 4 rows of 4 in a square foot.
   • Pro Tip: Carrots take longer to germinate (up to 3 weeks), so keep the soil consistently moist during this period. You can cover the rows with a wooden board or burlap to retain moisture—just remove it once the seedlings appear.

3. Peas

   • When to Plant: Early to mid-March, depending on the soil temperature (it should be above 40°F).
   • How to Plant: Sow seeds 1 inch deep and about 2 inches apart in rows. If using trellises, place them when planting to avoid disturbing roots later. For SFG plant then along the back row near your trellis if you have one. If you need helping building one check out my Ultimate Square Foot Garden Bed Plans.
   • Pro Tip: Choose varieties suited for early spring, such as sugar snap or shelling peas. Protect seedlings with a cold frame or frost cloth if nighttime temperatures dip below freezing.

4. Radishes

   • When to Plant: Early March, alongside spinach and peas.
   • How to Plant: Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep and spaced 1 inch apart. Thin seedlings to 2–3 inches apart after germination. For SFG plant 6x6 or 4x4 depending how big the variety is.
   • Pro Tip: Radishes grow fast (20–30 days to maturity), making them a great crop to interplant with slower-growing vegetables like carrots.

5. Lettuce and Salad Greens

   • When to Plant: Early March, as soon as the soil can be worked.
   • How to Plant: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep and thin to 6–12 inches apart, depending on the variety. for SFG I plant 4x4 to 2x2 depending on variety and how soon I pick them. Things like arugula that I pick when still young will be 6x6.
   • Pro Tip: Use a mix of leafy greens for variety, and succession plant every 2–3 weeks for a continuous harvest. If you're doing SFG you can either divide the square in half for succession planting or use multiple squares planted at different times.

Preparing to Seed: Timing Is Key

Here’s a simple rule of thumb: if your soil is dry enough to crumble in your hand, you’re ready to plant. Frost is still a concern in March, so be ready to protect your seeds and seedlings on colder nights. Keep a frost cloth or your cold frame handy to keep them cozy when temperatures drop.

Tips for Better Germination

1. Warm Up Your Soil: If your beds are still on the cold side, lay down a sheet of black 2ml or thicker plastic for a few days before planting to trap heat. This can help raise the soil temperature just enough to give seeds a better start.

2. Keep the Soil Moist: Seeds need consistent moisture to germinate. Water lightly every day or two, especially if the weather is dry. Use a gentle watering can or a spray nozzle to avoid washing the seeds out of place.

3. Mark Your Rows: Tiny seeds like carrots and lettuce can be hard to spot as they germinate. Use markers or string to keep track of where you planted so you don’t accidentally disturb the rows.

4. Succession Plant: For crops like spinach, lettuce, and radishes, plant a new batch every 2–3 weeks to ensure a continuous harvest throughout spring.

What to Watch for After Planting

• Frost: Use your cold frame, frost cloth, or even an overturned bucket to shield young seedlings on particularly cold nights.
• Pests: Early spring pests like aphids and slugs might show up as temperatures warm. Inspect your seedlings regularly and take action early—hand-picking or organic pest deterrents usually do the trick.
• Thinning: Don’t skip thinning! Crowded seedlings will compete for nutrients and water, leaving you with weaker plants and smaller harvests.

With your garden beds prepped and your seeds in the ground, you’re officially kicking off the growing season. There’s something so rewarding about these early plantings—they signal the start of another year full of possibility. So grab your seeds, keep an eye on the weather, and get ready to welcome a burst of green to your garden.

Starting Seeds Indoors: Best Practices for Organic Gardeners

You know that moment when you’re elbow-deep in a bag of potting mix, and you catch yourself smiling for no reason? That’s not just gardening joy; there’s actual science behind it. A study shows that a type of bacteria in soil, Mycobacterium vaccae, triggers serotonin production, making you happier and more relaxed. Who needs a spa day when you’ve got seed trays?

I’ve been growing plants indoors for years, and let me tell you, once you get the hang of it, you might find yourself with hundreds of seedlings. I used to grow so many plants every spring that I’d sell extras to cover my gardening costs. Because honestly, it’s not much harder to grow a hundred seedlings than it is to grow a few. Go big or grow home, right?

Why Start Seeds Indoors?

Starting seeds indoors gives you a head start on the growing season, especially for crops that need a longer time to mature, like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. Plus, it’s way cheaper than buying seedlings at the garden center. You’re also in control of what varieties you grow and what goes into your plants: organic seeds, organic potting mix, and no mystery chemicals.

And let’s be honest, there’s something magical about seeing those tiny green shoots pop up and knowing you started them from scratch. It’s like being a plant parent, minus the tantrums.

What You’ll Need to Get Started

Before diving in, let’s talk about timing. For northern New Jersey, February is the perfect time to start seeds indoors for crops like lettuces, broccoli, kale, cabbage, eggplants, bell peppers, and tomatoes. Starting these crops now ensures they’re ready to thrive when the weather warms up.

Don’t worry, you don’t need a fancy setup to grow seeds indoors. Here’s what I use:

• Seed trays or containers: Reuse old yogurt cups or purchase seed trays. Just make sure they have drainage holes. The seeds don't need a lot of soil at this stage and I use large capacity trays like these 128 cell seed starter trays.
• Organic potting mix: Avoid garden soil; it’s too heavy and can introduce pests.
• Light source: If you’ve got a sunny windowsill, great. If not, check out my post on using LED lights to grow seeds indoors (Can You Use LED Lights to Start Seeds?). LEDs are affordable, energy-efficient, and work like a charm.
• Seeds: Choose organic seeds that are suited to your climate. Starting with veggies you love to eat is always a good idea.
• Labels: Trust me, you won’t remember which tray is which by day three. I use a silver Sharpie to label the rows (A-H) and columns (1-16) and keep track of what I'm planting with a spreadsheet. When I transplant them in larger pots I print out custom plant labels on waterproof paper.

The Steps to Seed-Starting Success

1. Plan Your Crops: Start seeds indoors now for crops like broccoli, kale, cabbage, eggplants, bell peppers, and tomatoes. These crops require a longer growing season, and starting them indoors gives you a jumpstart before outdoor planting.
2. Fill your seed starting trays with organic seed starting mix: It should feel light and fluffy. Fill the trays and give them a few taps to settle but don't pack them in, top off with more potting mix.
3. Plant Your Seeds: Follow the depth instructions on the seed packet. Rule of thumb: plant seeds twice as deep as they are wide. I use a tooth pick to make the holes and cover them back up. 
4. Water Gently: I place the trays in a tray of water to soak up moisture, cover with humidity dome. The potting mix should have fertilizer and beneficial microbes but I've gotten in the habit of spraying a bit of diluted Espoma Grow on the top because I know it has bacillus subtilis and I never had any issues with damping off. 
5. Keep Them Warm: Most seeds germinate well around 65–75°F. If your home is chilly, a seedling heat mat with thermostat helps a lot.
6. Be Patient: Some seeds, like peppers, take longer to sprout. Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and resist the urge to overwater.
7. Provide Light: Once the little green babies start poking out of the potting mix, place your trays in a sunny spot or under LED lights. Position lights a few inches above the seedlings and adjust as they grow. They may not all come up at the same time so I might remove the humidity dome and cover ungerminated cells with plastic wrap until they start coming up. It's important to group your seeds by germination time.

It's Not Hard Growing Hundreds of Tomatoes

For a few years, I got overly ambitious and started about 300 plants. I had plenty for my and my relatives gardens and was able to sell enough online to cover my gardening costs.

Pro Tips for Better Seedlings

• Airflow Matters: Use a small fan to keep air circulating around your seedlings. It prevents mold and helps plants grow strong stems once they emerge from the soil. In fact get a clean dowel and brush them with them from time to time to make them even stronger.
• Feed Them: Once your seedlings develop their first true leaves, start feeding them with a diluted organic fertilizer.
• Transplanting: When seedlings outgrow their containers, gently move them to larger pots. Handle them by their leaves, not stems. I like to use larger trays like these 18 planting pot cells.

Why It’s All Worth It

Not only does starting seeds indoors save money and give you healthier plants, but it also brings a little extra joy into your life. There’s something therapeutic about watching your plants grow day by day. And let’s not forget the bragging rights. When your neighbors ask where you got those gorgeous tomatoes, you can casually say, “Oh, I grew them from seed.”

Ready to dig in? Grab your potting mix and seeds, and let’s get growing. If you’re looking for more tips, check out my post on how to build your own compost bin to create nutrient-rich soil for future gardening projects. You’ve got this.

Preparing Your Garden for Spring: Soil Testing and Amendment Strategies

As gardeners, we wait all winter for the smell of fresh-cut grass and the taste of warm, vine-ripened tomatoes. But before those dreams become reality, it’s time to focus on what’s beneath our feet, the soil. Last year’s weather patterns in New Jersey, with fluctuating temperatures and periods of heavy rain, may have impacted soil composition and nutrient balance. Heavy rains can wash away important nutrients like nitrogen and potassium, leaving the soil less fertile. They can also cause soil compaction, which reduces air and water flow to plant roots. Additionally, prolonged wet conditions might lead to increased soil acidity by leaching away calcium and magnesium, both vital for healthy plant growth. If you noticed blossom end-rot early last year it's probably due to loss of calcium. Now is the perfect time to check in on your soil’s health and make sure it’s ready to support a productive growing season.

Why Test Your Soil?

Testing your soil helps you understand its pH, nutrients, and organic matter levels. With this information, you can make the right adjustments without wasting time or adding too much fertilizer. If you live in New Jersey, the Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station (NJAES) is a great place to start.

How to Test Your Soil

1. Collect Samples: Take samples from different parts of your yard—vegetable beds, flower beds, and lawn areas. For gardens, dig about 6-8 inches deep. For lawns, aim for 4 inches. Mix samples in a clean container.
2. Send to a Lab: Use a lab like Rutgers’ to get detailed results. DIY kits can work too, but labs give better details and advice.
3. Read Your Results: Check for pH, nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and organic matter. Many New Jersey soils are slightly acidic, so pH adjustments are common.

Improving Your Soil

Once you know what your soil needs, you can add organic materials to fix the problems:

• Adjusting pH:
  • Acidic soils (common in New Jersey): Add lime to raise the pH. Follow lab recommendations for how much to use.
  • Alkaline soils: Add sulfur or organic materials like pine needles to lower pH.
• Adding Nutrients:
  • For nitrogen: Use alfalfa meal or an organic fertilizer.
  • For phosphorus: Add bone meal or rock phosphate.
  • For potassium: Try greensand or kelp meal.
• Improving Organic Matter:
  • Add compost or leaf mold. These boost the soil’s health, help it hold water, and encourage beneficial microbes.

When I first started gardening, I struggled with poor vegetable harvests. A soil test showed my soil was too acidic and low in phosphorus. I added lime and rock phosphate, and the next season, my garden exploded with tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. Testing and fixing my lawn soil also turned a dull yard into a bright green one. It’s amazing what a few simple changes can do.

Special Tips for New Jersey Gardeners

Lawn Care Notes for February

At this time of year, it’s best to focus on soil testing for your lawn and planning ahead for any improvements. Conduct your soil test now so you’re ready to act when the conditions are right later in the season.

New Jersey’s climate and soil vary across the state, so keep these things in mind:

• When to Start: Late February to early March is a good time to start preparing. Don’t work the soil if it’s frozen or soggy—you can damage its structure.
• Urban Gardens: If you’re in a city or suburb, check for soil contaminants like lead. Rutgers can help with advice on dealing with this.

Mulching and Cover Crops

To protect your soil after you improve it and keep weed pressure down, add mulch or plant cover crops. Mulch like shredded leaves or straw helps keep weeds down and soil moist. It's not the most natural looking but I use black plastic sheeting for my garden beds.

Final Thoughts

Testing and improving your soil now will set your garden and lawn up for a great year. Healthy soil means stronger plants, greener grass, and better vegetables, all while avoiding chemicals.